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Is one of your best bets for getting onto real rock outside of London, there is an abundance of sandstone slabs close to Royal Tunbridge Wells and East Grinstead. All of which on a good day is only an 1.5 hour from London (dependant on where you live). Below is a selection of the more prominent crags in East Sussex.

 

A great guide book for the area is Southern Sandstone which is jam packed full of climbs, routes, grades and other information about the area and you can also check out the UKClimbing crag map for more information on locations, routes and access etc 



Good resources for climbing in East Sussex:

- www.southernsandstoneclimbs.co.uk

- Southern Sandstone (Climbers’ Club, 2008)​

- UKClimbing Crag Logbook

- BMC Regional Access Database



Stone Farm
 

Description

Stone Farm is owned by the BMC who bought the area for £100 back in 2001. This small outcrop of southern sandstone is a very good bouldering venue and an enjoyable place to climb due to little crowding, remote location, and picturesque scenery. Typical height 6m. Is often dry, but sadly chipped in places. 


Type of Climbing
Top roping, bouldering
 

Number of Climbs​

140+


Where
Weir Wood Resivoir - East Grinstead

Getting there from London
From East Grinstead, take the B2110 twd Chiddinglye Wood. Turn left after about 1 mile towards Saint Hill and on to Stone Farm. Cars can be parked about 100m down the road and you can take the path opposite the house down W hoarthly rd. The rocks are about 100m from the path where you will spot a southern sandstone sign.

Guidebook / Crag Guide

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=59

http://www.mountain-trips.co.uk/stone_farm_boulder_guide.html
 

Access and Notes

No leading. Soloing or toproping only. Take a second rope to extend top belays.

BMC information

BMC Area - London & South East Rock

Type - Sandstone
Climbing Area - Southern Sandstone

Access Status - Advice
County - East Sussex

CRoW Land - Yes
Importance Regional No. of Routes 80
Ownership Private Year Developed 1943
Within National Park No Grid Reference TQ381348


 

Climbing Outside London -East Sussex

​Harrison’s Rocks

Description

Popular with groups and becoming well worn on the easier routes. All of the climbs are quite short, with the highest at approximately 9m. Most climbs have a ring drilled and set into the rock at the top for setting up a top rope, but some rely on the use of tree trunks for protection, so be warned. 


Type of Climbing
Top roping, bouldering

Number of Climbs

350+

Where
Near Royal Tumbridge Wells - Kent

Getting there
Car 1.5h - Take the road S from Groombridge, past the old station on the left. Take the R fork; 200m further turn R again down a narrow lane signposted "Birchden Wood and Harrisons Rocks".

From the car park, various footpaths lead to the crag.
Train South West train from Waterloo to Ashurst/Eridge

Guidebook / Crag Guide
Southern Sandstone (Climbers’ Club, 2008)

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=57

Other Information
Please use soft soled shoes and clean your feet on a carpet sample before climbing. 

Harrison's Rocks is composed of a soft sandstone, which is prone to being worn away. It is therefore important to keep erosion to a minimum.

Top ropes should be set up so that the "sawing" effect of rope movement is kept away from rock surfaces as much as possible.

Bolts at the tops of climbs have been placed to help with this

Car park, toilets and a donation box to help pay for upkeep are all located near the crag.

BMC information

BMC Area - London & South East
Rock Type - Sandstone
Climbing Area - Southern Sandstone
Access Status - Advice
County - East Sussex
CRoW Land - Yes
Ownership - Private
Within National Park - No
Grid Reference - TQ532355

 

Source - Wikipedia Author Twyford

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