Climbing Outside London - Swanage, Dorset
Area
Swanage, Dorset
Types of climbing
Trad, Sport deep water soloing, bouldering
A bit about the Area
Being only a short journey from London, the Limestone cliffs of the Swanage coast stretch for some 3 miles and offer a bewildering array of sport/trad and sea-cliff climbing. Many of the climbing is only accessible during good weather and via some tricky abseiling, so parts of the area are only recommended to experienced climbers. That being said there are still some great areas to visit if you are still learning e.g. Winspit Quarry.
Whilst some guide books do contain information about Durdle Door and Lulworth Cove, the Estate that owns the land, for reason of conservation and public safety, do not allow climbing to take place in the area. For that reason we have not put information on them into the guide.
Getting There
Car 3h - From LondonTrain - South West train from Waterloo to Bournemouth/Poole/Wareham.
From Poole/Bournemouth it is a short trip either via the chain-ferry at Sandbanks or via Wareham. There are several busses that go to swanage
We would recommend having some form of personalised transport e.g. bike/car as the Swanage are is quite large and would take a few hours to walk about. That being said, if you are only planning to go to one area for the day then walking could be a viable option.
Accommodation
There’s a variety of different places to stay, ranging from plush B&B's to a good array of campsites dotted about the area.
Guidebooks
Rockfax - Dorset
http://www.climbdorset.co.uk/climbs/swanage-climbs/
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/book.php?id=19
Winspit Quarry
Description
Winspit Quarry is a must see for any climber, enclosed within a disused quarry on the cliffs just south of Worth Matravers, the location has gained some notoriety for its use in Doctor Who and Blake's 7. It is now more famous for offering some of the best, most sheltered and well bolted sport climbing on the South Coast.
The quarry comprises of 2 half's (East and West) either side of a rocky cove, which offers a secluded and popular sunbathing and picnic spot. Due to it being set back from the sea,
Type of Climbing
Mainly sport but, some bouldering and Trad opportunities available.
Number of Climbs
Around 80
Where
Due-South of Worth Matravers, Dorset
Approach
Leave cars in the car-park near the Square and Compass pub, then take a short and pleasant walk from Worth Matravers down the path. Walk roughly 15mins from Worth Matravers.
Guidebook / Crag Guide
http://www.climbdorset.co.uk/climbs/swanage-climbs/
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/book.php?id=19
Access and Notes
The Quarry is on private land and you may be asked to leave please do so without trouble or incident as this may jeopardise future negotiations.
BMC information
Check the BMC RADhttps://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=171
Guillemot Ledge
Description
A huge wall with several mixed gradded routes which are some of the longest at Swanage. The approach is via Abseil to a non-tidal boulder beach. The climbs have some of the more reasonable finishes than other swanage cliffs in the area.
Type of Climbing
Abseil entry, Trad multipitch climbing.
Number of Climbs
Around 40 trad routes
Where
Due-South of Langton Matravers, Dorset
Approach
Guillemot Ledge is approached from Langton Matravers. Parking spot, turn off the A351 towards Langton Matravers, just outside Swanage town. From the village, go past the post office and turn left into Durnford Drove. The free car park is 300m down here by Langton House.
From the parking walk south on a good path past four fields and a spyway barn. After the 4th field, before you drop down to the quarry, turn left (looking out) and follow the ridge track to cross another stile in the next stone wall. Drop diagonally right down a steep hillside to reach the valley bottom then head out towards the cliff edge past a last stone wall.
Guidebook / Crag Guide
http://www.climbdorset.co.uk/climbs/swanage-climbs/
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/book.php?id=255
Access and Notes
No climbing 1 March to 31 July because of nesting birds on the main West face.
BMC information
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=163